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Chateau la Vieille Cure, Fronsac 2016 (JD93)

Chateau la Vieille Cure, Fronsac 2016 (JD93)

★波爾多Fronsac村 頂級酒莊
★《Parker's Wine Buyer's Guide》Fronsac產區,兩個入選4星酒莊之一

Fronsac, Bordeaux

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 Château la Vieille Cure, Fronsac 2016 

經常波爾多前、波爾多後,你可能覺得你已經很了解波爾多酒了,但如果有機會看過一本Berry Bros. & Rudd出版、Jane Anson撰寫、超過700頁的《Inside Bordeaux》,或許你會明白法國波爾多這個著名的產酒區,還有很多你未認識的漏網之魚,又豈只是5大酒莊咁簡單呢?!

《Decanter》葡萄酒雜誌形容Jane Anson是提供最多資訊的波爾多酒專家,自2003年,她已在波爾多遊走,為呢本書進行資料搜集。因此,對於一本波爾多酒書的基本要求,如歷史、葡萄、副牌酒、評級、買賣機制、酒莊介紹,當然不會缺乏,但法國酒經常講的Terroir,一定會花不少篇幅去介紹,讓你知道氣候、泥土,以致人為的釀酒技術,如何影響法國的佳釀。還有不得不提的年份評級,甚至常被忽略的波爾多白酒,其潛質也會被發掘出來。

Fronsac是Jane推介的波爾多其中一個產區,位處右岸,比較接近著名的St.Emilion及Pomerol區,後兩者都在Fronsac的東面。這區以Merlot葡萄主導,通常與Cabernet Franc配搭,有時亦會加入Malbec去增加葡萄酒的複雜性。Jane推薦的兩個酒莊-Chateau la Vieille Cure及Chateau les Trois Croix,葡萄園的泥土都屬石灰石,自2015年起,因為近年的炎熱夏天而令葡萄酒變得更出眾。

Chateau la Vieille Cure則是Fronsac其中一個古老的酒莊,於1780年已出現在地圖上,被Jane形容是Fronsac的搖滾巨星(Rock-Star)酒莊。自從美國的金融才俊Colin Ferenbach及Peter Sachs於1986年入主後,着手將葡萄園重新種植,但仍保留80年樹齡的葡萄樹。今天的莊主,是2018年購入的法國企業家Jerome Pignard。酒莊擁有37公頃的葡萄園,八成用來製作La Vieille Cure,其餘釀造副牌酒-La Sacristie de la Vieille Cure。

 93 pts Jeb Dunnuck 
From one of the top terroirs in Fronsac and made with the help of talented Jean-Luc Thunevin, the 2016 Château La Vieille Cure is 80% Merlot and 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, all aged in 50% new oak (a small part is also brought up in tank). This deep purple-colored effort got a big "Wow" in my notes and boasts a head-turning bouquet of cassis and black raspberry fruits intermixed with notes of dried flowers, vanilla bean, and leafy herbs. With remarkable purity, medium to full body, silky tannins, and a great finish, it's a thrilling Fronsac that I suspect might be one of the best to date. Drink it over the coming 10-15 years.

 93 pts Vinous, Antonio Galloni, January 2019 
The 2016 La Vieille Cure is fabulous. Racy and voluptuous in the glass, the 2016 is seriously beautiful. Raspberry jam, white chocolate, spice, leather and rose petal notes infuse this super-expressive, plush Fronsac. La Vieille Cure is a wine of real character and pedigree. I loved it. 

 92 pts Wine Advocate, Lisa Perrotti-Brown, November 30, 2018 
The 2016 La Vieille Cure has a deep garnet-purple color and quite a savory nose of chargrilled meats, tapenade, beef dripping and dried herbs over a core of plum preserves and Black Forest cake. Full-bodied, rich and packed with black plums and savory layers, it has a firm, velvety frame and fantastic length.

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