Hubert Lamy Saint Aubin "La Princee" Blanc 2020
來自海拔約300公尺的地塊,充滿小礫石的黏土質石灰岩,表土深度都不超過30公分。Lamy對於土地相當重視,僅使用有機肥料超過20年,每年進行三次的翻土!酒款風味多變細膩,以礦物風味為主軸,夾帶著清新柑橘、白花等香氣,口感依然圍繞著Saint Aubin村特有的礦物感,尾韻精緻綿長!
90 pts Neal Martin, Vinous (Jan 2023):
A blend of 10 different parcels, the 2020 Saint-Aubin La Princée has a pretty nose of apple blossom and subtle granitic scents, focused with modest intensity. The palate is well-balanced with a dash of white pepper on the entry, fine acidity, quite fiery on the finish in a positive sense. Lots of energy coiled up here. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2034
90 pts Wine Advocate (Jan 2023):
The 2020 Saint-Aubin La Princée is also very attractive, offering up aromas of crisp green apple, fresh mint, white flowers and warm bread, followed by a medium to full bodied, ample and satiny palate that's built around racy acids and chalky extract. It's a model of purity and precision. This is another strikingly good vintage for Olivier Lamy, whose tireless efforts over the last 25 years are now consistently delivering some of contemporary Burgundy's greatest wines. Whether it's cutting-edge viticulture including plantings at over 20,000 vines per hectare and unhedged canopies; extended maturation on the lees, which now amounts to 24 months in total, 23 of those in largely neutral wood; obsessive attention to closures and bottling practices; or a host of other small details that, cumulatively, make the difference between the best and the rest, Lamy has spared nothing to get to where he is today. While his ultra-rare Haute Densité bottlings are now almost impossible to source, readers will still find it easy to secure his more modest cuvées. Forget them in the cellar for a decade and reap the rewards!
Hubert Lamy酒莊位於法國Burgundy布根地Cote de Beaune產區,主打釀造Chardonnay白酒及少量Pinot Noir紅酒,用的葡萄主要是來自St Aubin村內的村級及中級田,也有Chassagne Montrachet的中級田和Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet的高級田。
Lamy 家族在1640年已在St Aubin村扎根。現任釀酒師Olivier在1996年接任, 是Hubert Lamy的兒子,之前曾在著名布根地Vosne Romanee酒莊 Meo Camuzet任職。
法國葡萄酒專業雜誌“今日布根地”將酒莊的現任莊主兼釀酒師Olivier Lamy譽為Top 10釀酒師。在國際上也獲得極高的評價,甚至有新興的酒莊,以跟隨Lamy學習做為賣點。便可知道Domaine Hubert Lamy在布根地白酒界的名聲之高。
酒莊最特殊的地方,莫過於Olivier秉持斯巴達式教育的栽種哲學。有別於當地一般每公頃約1萬到1萬五千株的種植密度,他選擇高達2萬8千,甚至到達3萬株的超高密度,迫使葡萄在極為嚴苛的狀況下生長。因此每株的產率極低,濃縮度極高,展現驚人的格局,純淨感,與穿透感。