眾所周知,布根地的紅白酒分為四級: 由低至高分別係 大產區Bourgogne, 村級Village, 一級田1er Cru, 和最高級的特級田Grand Cru, 係成熟既市場化之下,真係一分錢一分貨。但偏偏有位仁兄將支村級質數既白酒,賣到大區價錢,而且仲係法國最知名的釀酒師之一、布根地鼎鼎大名莊Comtes Lafon既Dominique Lafon。
家族酒莊Domaine des Comtes Lafon 可說是布根地Mersault村最重要的白酒酒莊,自1982年由Dominique Lafon 接手管理並逐漸自己耕作與自釀。家族2003年起在Macon區購買葡萄園,成立 les Heritiers des Comtes Lafon;於2008年,Dominique 另外以他名字成立酒莊Dominique Lafon,今日介紹呢支Bourgogne Blanc 就係出自佢既手筆。
【點解會有村級質數? 因為葡萄採收自兩塊村級田: Meursault既 Le Limozin in "Les Grandes Coutures" 和Puligny-Montrachet lieu-dit Les Femelottes,樹齡20-50年。】
成間家族酒莊Domaine des Comtes Lafon都係Dominique領導 點解要再整多間? 佢解釋道: "通過Dominique Lafon(DL),我可以在學習的基礎上繼續發展,我有能力進行實驗等。我正在不斷學習。如果我必須定義DL葡萄酒的風格,我會說這些葡萄酒比Domaine des Comtes Lafon的葡萄酒更具張力。 DL葡萄酒的elevage時間更短,並且地塊大多位於山坡的上部,這使葡萄酒具有了有趣的礦質和張力。”
*90 pts Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy(Oct 2021):*
"From two fine vineyards, Femelottes and Grands Coutures. Two thirds made in barrel and one third in demi-muids, racked to tank, to bottle before Christmas. Glowing lemon and lime. Showing a classic lees-infused generous bouquet, this is as beautiful as ever, with a superb texture and really pretty fruit at perfect ripeness. Dominique can judge these things! Potential to keep as well. Lovely little point of acidity to finish."
Is Dominique Lafon a hidden gem? Since there's never enough Comtes Lafon to please, this is the next best thing, and drinking this Chardonnay from the master of Meursault is just too good a deal to keep hidden.
*Allen Meadows, Burghound (Apr 2022):*
"Outstanding Top Value !"
"A more floral and less citrusy nose offers up notes of white orchard fruit and lemon rind. Here too there is very good volume and intensity to the more attractively textured flavors that possess better depth on the markedly dry but not really austere finale. This is very good in the context of the genre and worth a look."
*Wine Advocate (Apr 2022):*
"A fine effort, the 2020 Bourgogne Blanc reveals aromas of pear, citrus oil and freshly baked bread. Medium-bodied, bright and elegantly fleshy, it's a pretty, fine-boned wine that concludes with a saline finish. Deriving from a parcel owned and farmed by Lafon, it's vinified in fûts and demi-muids."
Dominique Lafon所產的酒款皆來自酒莊自有地塊,Dominique並親自耕種,葡萄園耕作秉照Comte Lafon採用自然動力法,此款Bourgogne Blanc呈現柑橘芬芳氣息、礦石的迷人風格,並有清新的酸度增添許多細節變化。