*88 pts Allen Meadows, Burghound (Jun 2022)*
An attractively fresh and bright nose is comprised by notes of various white fleshed fruit and citrus zest. There is both good volume and punch to the equally bright middle weight flavors that possess better than average depth on the clean, dry and sneaky long finale. One to consider. *Outstanding*
*88 pts William Kelley, Wine Advocate (Jan 2022):*
Scents of pear, almond paste, white flowers and green apple introduce the 2020 Bourgogne Blanc, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise wine with tangy acids and chalky grip. This is a promising rendition of this reliable bottling. The 2020 vintage is another terrific success for Anne Morey, who confidently directs this 11-hectare domaine as well as her family's Maison Morey-Blanc (also reviewed in this report). In white, yields were generous, delivering classically balanced wines that get my nod as the estate's finest since 2017. In red, lower yields and rapid ripening had delivered more atypical results, with some cuvées hitting 15% alcohol, yet that was remarkably well-concealed—at least when tasting from barrel in the cellars.
This may "just" be a Bourgogne blanc, and perhaps it would be, if it were made by any other winemaker. But Pierre Morey isn't any other winemaker. He is a legend, an artist, a pioneer. He was the head winemaker and vineyard manager at Leflaive from 1988-2008 and converted them and his own estate to fully biodynamics way back in 1991. He is single handedly responsible for some of the greatest white wines in history. And for a simple Bourgogne blanc, this is really something special. From four parcels planted in 1977, all biodynamically farmed, this chardonnay is aged on the lees in old oak barrels for 16 to 18 months. The result is a wine full of character, charm, and precision. Floral, minerally, acid drenched, and packed with salinity, the finish is incredibly long and complex. *This is better than a lot of Mersaults and Montrahcets out there for significantly more money.*
從1988年起Pierre Morey便擔任布根地Puligny Montrachet村的頂尖白酒Leflaive的首席釀酒師直到2008年。而同時間他也是Pierre Morey與1993年成立的微型酒商Morey Blanc的莊主與釀酒師，在Cote de Beaune極具盛名。
早在70年代，Pierre便已預見過度的化學除草劑與人工化肥都持續危害布根地珍貴的土壤，到了80年代初期就開始關注有機種植與自然動力法，意圖回復葡萄園旺盛的生命力與原本的抗病能力，更讓葡萄藤能夠向下紮根取得必要的營養。酒莊在1992年時全面改為有機耕作並嘗試自然動力法，1998年時徹底導入自然動力法。莊主女兒Anne跟隨Pierre進行十數年的貼身學習，已完全繼承了生物動力法的精隨，持續管理葡萄園，以及釀酒工藝，早從數年前開始，Anne已經成為酒莊的主心骨，在父親的幫助下，幫助酒莊評價更上一層樓。
對產率的控制也是酒莊的重要種植哲學，捨棄一般常用較為早熟的砧木，依地塊位置與土壤更換各自適合的品種。開花前後各進行一次剪枝作業。相對則依年份決定是否需要施行綠色採收。根據Pierre與Anne多年的種植與釀造經驗，接近採收期時，Pierre每天都會多次親自查看每塊地的成熟度與天候狀況，確認葡萄的甜度與酸度足夠平衡，以及酚類物質是否足夠成熟，以訂定最佳採收日期。Pierre表示對酒莊而言，這是每年最重要的決定。
採收後輕柔的壓榨並靜置24~48小時，再依自然重力移置小橡木桶，交由野生酵母發酵。村莊級的新桶比例約20~25%；一級園與頂級園則為30~50%。發酵期間，每週進行2~3次的攪桶，增添香氣，礦物感與複雜度。酒莊生產的紅酒，100%去梗，不過度使用淋汁或踩皮，以免釋出過多的單寧，營造優雅自然的風格。有別於Leflaive強烈的果實濃縮感，Pierre Morey的風格更著重展現各個地塊的風土特色差異，因此能呈現出充滿平衡度與明顯礦石感的細緻優雅風格。
