Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Riesling "Clos Windsbuhl" 2007
★Humbrecht家族在法國Alsace產區是個古老的釀酒家族,1620年是 Guebershwihr 附近馬爾巴赫修道院葡萄園的租戶。
★少莊主Olivier Humbrecht 本身是農業科學家,現代釀酒學知識自然爐火純青,自1997年起卻自廢科學武功,實驗性地在部分葡萄園裡,以自然動力法耕作,並觀察到此農法效果宏大,不同凡響,便在隔年實行100%自然動力農法。
★Clos Windsbuhl 雖未列名特級園,但在國際酒評間評價超高,一致認為可以比擬特級園,又被稱為隱藏版特級園!Vendange Tardive酒款更三次獲得Robert Parker 100分。
★酒莊:“This wine feels like a dangerous weapon: steely, sharp, crisp, full of mineral quality. Definitely not a beginner’s style!”
呢款Riesling白酒,來自於法國Alsace的Clos Windsbuhl 葡萄園,位於山脈的上側,面朝東南方。此處的土質細緻,兼有許多岩石,土層為三疊紀石灰岩(Muschelkalk),富含許多礦物質。也因氣候涼爽,果實得以慢慢成熟,並達到極高的成熟度。現今葡萄藤的平均年齡在44年左右,得以釀造出品質穩定的平衡酒款。
明亮的檸檬黃色,散發新鮮純淨的果香,礦物調性中還有一絲海風的鹹感,輕盈的酸度帶出多層次風味,有著清新、優雅且悠長的尾韻。
93 pts David Schildknecht, RobertParker.com (April 2010):
After waiting in vain for botrytis while he picked a range of V.T. and S.G.N. wines elsewhere, Humbrecht finally harvested a 2007 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl that fermented to one gram of sugar, yet still barely over 13% alcohol, confirming his observation that grape sugar levels hit a plateau this year, but not their flavor evolution! From cask, this was almost painfully raw and long shrouded in fermentative aromas (it was never racked) but the outlines of what would emerge were already discernable of a wine on which opinions will vary, one of extraordinary brightness and density, austere, yet delivering corpse-quickening invigoration. Fresh ginger, mint, tart pineapple, and distilled yellow plum on the nose join with practically searing lemon and grapefruit citricity and correspondingly pungent zest. Marine salinity and vivid chalkiness utterly saturate the palate all the way through a long, penetrating finish. This taut, dense, brash, backward wine is I believe a classic such as would have been more easily recognized 20 or more years ago. Taste it soon, just for the record, then wait a decade and follow it for its second decade. If this gains more nuance it could prove to be an extraordinary exponent of its site, and as an experiment it is both intriguing and delicious.
91 pts Wine Enthusiast:
Complex and steely, this is a wine with a lot of energy and a solid core of acidity that carries flavors of white cherries and lime from the attack all the way through to a dry, lingering finish. Has solid length and definition. Let this one mellow a few years.
Domaine Zind-Humbrecht酒莊在1959年成立,由Humbrecht家族與Zind家族聯姻組織而成,如今擁有40公頃葡萄園,如下:
特級園:
* Rangen (位於南部Thann鎮), 5.5公頃
* Brand (位於Turckheim鎮), 2.4公頃
* Hengst (位於Wintzenheim鎮), 1.4公頃
* Goldert (位於南部Gueberschwihr鎮), 0.9 公頃
獨佔園/單一園
* Rotenberg (位於Wintzenheim鎮), 1.8 公頃
* Clos Häuserer (位於Wintzenheim鎮), 1.2 公頃
* Herrenweg (位於Turkheim鎮), 11.5 公頃
* Clos Jebsal (位於 Turkheim鎮), 1.3 公頃
* Heimbourg (位於Turkheim鎮), 4 公頃
* Clos Windsbuhl (位於 Hunawihr鎮), 5.2 公頃
在酒莊眾多單一園之中,尤以今日介紹的Clos Windsbuhl最為特殊。前任莊主Léonard Humbrecht 早期對一塊特殊的葡萄園”Clos Windsbuhl”非常嚮往,此園最早的種植記錄可以追溯到 1324 年,當時它名為”Erlach。自十七世紀以來,此園以及周遭土地曾經隸屬於奧地利王朝的哈布斯堡家族,”Erlach”葡萄園也更名為”Clos Windsbuhl”。當時的記錄顯示,自Clos Windsbuhl 產出的葡萄酒價格是其他地區葡萄酒的三倍。19 世紀,來自史特拉斯堡的一位書記官Albert Meyer購買了此園並進行了翻新。1914 年,編年史家暨”亞爾薩斯珍饌(暫譯, 原文: L’Alsace Gourmande)”一書的作者 Georges Spetz 列出了 17 個Alsace偉大葡萄園風土,其中包含了Clos Windsbuhl。
1987 年,Léonard Humbrecht 的夢想變成了現實,他購下了Clos Windsbuhl所有土地並使之成為Zind-Humbrecht酒莊的獨佔園,對其傾注無限的熱情並懷抱無限的寄託。”Clos Windsbuhl”朝東南,坡度良好,四周環繞著森林以調節濕氣,岩層有著被稱為 muschelkalk 的三疊紀貝殼石灰岩基質,出產的Riesling葡萄酒具有優雅的花香及獨特的礦物感。而種植Pinot gris釀成的Sélection de Grains Nobles(篩選貴腐葡萄),帶有焦糖和熱帶水果香氣,並與明亮的酸度保持平衡。