Henri & Philippe Jouan Clos saint Denis VV Grand Cru 2019

Jacky Truchot 一支特級田要價幾萬蚊，未飲過都唔緊要，今日介紹佢老友Jouan釀的Clos st Denis 特級田， 100年老樹，風格相似，爆花香、極低產，有酒友形容媲美Dujac Clos saint Denis. 

 95 pts Wine Advocate (Jan 2021): 

The 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru bursts with notes of raspberries, cherries, sweet spices, orange rind and loamy soil. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's rich and concentrated, with a fleshy core of fruit, powdery tannins and a sapid finish. The 2019 vintage has turned out nicely at this tiny domaine of scarcely more than three hectares, and while the wines clearly bear the stamp of a warm, ripe vintage, they're purer and more elegant than the rich, carnal 2018s; a vintage Jouan and 1 revisited in the form of a bottle of Clos Saint-Denis, opened and finished in his storage shed while he smoked several of his signature cigarettes-a memorable way to begin the day, and proof, if further were needed, of the lengths to which I go to keep readers optimally informed. These are resolutely old-fashioned Burgundies, with everything that entails, and it's easy to understand why they have a devoted following among wine lovers for whom they offer not only considerable organoleptic stimulation but also the undeniable pleasure of indulged nostalgia.

布根地微型酒莊，只有大約3公頃葡萄園，且大部份係老樹(產量更低)，而且大部分的葡萄販售給著名酒商Joseph Drouhin， 留返少量自行釀酒，飲家自然無咩機會飲到，因此知名度低。Clos Saint Denis 特級田 土釀係pebble-free brown limestone soils，包含phosphorus (like Chambertin) 

and clay (like Musigny)，被形容為夜丘的 莫札特 (Mozart of the Côte de Nuits). 

Domaine Henri Jouan位於Morey-Saint-Denis，由Henri Jouan在1962年創立，Henri Jouan是布根地傳奇釀酒師Jacky Truchot的畢生好友，儘管Jouan的酒莊不像Jacky Truchot那樣受到追捧，但是酒莊的葡萄酒純淨無瑕，令人著迷，酒款年輕時果香馥郁，口感極佳，陳年後則會展現出更多的層次與複雜性。令人驚奇的是，這些葡萄酒經常以相當低廉的價格出售。

2004年開始，Henri的兒子Philippe Jouan掌管酒莊，他曾向知名葡萄酒網站《The Burgundy Report》的作者Bill Nanson表示：「我們不做任何宣傳或類似的事情，主要是因為酒的產量實在太少了。」Bill Nanson指出，50多年來，酒莊都會將大部分的葡萄販售給著名酒商Joseph Drouhin，也因此酒莊自行釀造的葡萄酒產量非常稀少。

酒莊的葡萄園面積只有3公頃，不過由於Henri也以股份種植的方式租賃Alfred Jaquot的葡萄園，因此實際管理的葡萄園面積約4.5公頃，分布在Chambolle-Musigny、Morey-Saint-Denis、Gevrey-Chambertin等地，其中最重要的是位於Clos Saint-Denis的地塊。

英國著名酒評家Jasper Morris MW指出，自酒莊創立以來，釀造方式幾乎沒有改變，Philippe繼承了父親的傳統，在壓榨時必須輕柔，以免萃取出過於粗硬的單寧，但他稍微調整了葡萄的帶梗比例，從原本100%去梗轉變為最多10%帶梗。